AQUChem

Reactive, Disperse, Acid Dyes & Dye Intermediates for Global Textile Industry

28 grades across 5 chemistry families — Reactive Dyes (cotton/cellulosic), Disperse Dyes (polyester), Acid & Cationic Dyes (nylon/wool/acrylic), Dye Intermediates (H-acid, J-acid, aniline derivatives), and Dye Auxiliaries.

Quick-Pick by System

Fiber TypeDye ClassApplication ProcessTypical Color RangeRecommended Grade
Cotton (cellulosic)Reactive DyeExhaust / Pad-Steam / ContinuousFull spectrumReactive Black 5, Blue 19, Red 195, Yellow 145
Cotton (cellulosic) — DirectDirect DyeExhaust, single-stepBrown / Black / YellowDirect dyestuff for leather, cotton
Cotton (Vat)Vat DyeVat reduction then re-oxidationDeep blue/indigo, deep colorsVat Blue 4 (Indanthrone)
Cotton (Sulfur)Sulfur DyeReduction-oxidation, dark heavy colorsBlack / Navy / BrownSulfur Black 1
PolyesterDisperse DyeHT-HP / Carrier / ThermosolFull spectrumDisperse Blue 56, Red 60, Yellow 54
Polyester — PrintDisperse PrintSublimation / Print thickenerBright colors, sharp printDisperse print thickener + dye
Nylon (Polyamide)Acid DyeExhaust, slightly acidic pH 4–6Bright colors, brilliant redAcid Red 18, Blue 25
Wool (Protein)Acid DyeStrong acid pH 2–4Full spectrumAcid dye nylon-equivalent grades
Wool / Silk — PrintAcid Print PastePrint applicationSharp bright colorsAcid dye print paste
AcrylicCationic DyeHT-HP cationic exhaustBrilliant colorsCationic dye for acrylic
LeatherAcid / Direct / Reactive LeatherExhaust on tanned leatherEarth tones, deep colorsAcid/Direct/Reactive dyestuff for leather
Hair Care (PPD-based)Oxidative Dye CouplersOxidative dyeingBlack to light blondePPD intermediate, oxidative coupler

All Grades (by chemistry class)

Reactive Dyes — Cotton / Cellulosic Fiber(0)

The largest dye category by global volume. Reactive dyes contain a reactive group (vinyl sulfone, chlorotriazine, fluorochlorotriazine, or bifunctional) that forms a covalent bond with cellulosic fiber hydroxyl groups, giving wash-fast bright colors. The pad-steam continuous process dominates volume cotton dyeing; exhaust dyeing serves smaller-batch operations.

Disperse Dyes — Polyester(0)

The second-largest dye category, exclusively for polyester (and increasingly for PLA bioplastic). Disperse dyes are water-insoluble small molecules that diffuse into the hydrophobic polyester fiber matrix at high temperature/pressure (130°C in beam dyeing, 220°C in thermosol continuous). Sublimation grades enable digital printing onto polyester.

Acid, Cationic, Direct, Vat, Sulfur — Specialty Fiber Classes(0)

Acid dyes for nylon and wool; cationic dyes for acrylic; direct dyes for cellulose (simpler than reactive but lower wash-fastness); vat dyes for deep-color cotton (denim indigo); sulfur dyes for dark heavy colors at low cost. Specialty leather dyes serve the global tannery industry.

Dye Intermediates — H-Acid, J-Acid, Aniline Derivatives(0)

Upstream precursors for dye synthesis. H-acid (8-amino-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid) is the workhorse intermediate for azo dyes (reactive, acid, direct); J-acid for high-purity blacks; aniline and its substituted derivatives (m/o/p-nitroaniline, p-chloroaniline) for azo dye diazotization; resorcinol for coupling. PPD (p-phenylenediamine) is the hair-dye intermediate. Concentrated in Henan (Xinxiang, Mengzhou) and Zhejiang.

Dye Auxiliaries — Fixing Agents, Soaping, Carriers, Print Pastes(0)

Process chemistry that supports dye application but is not the colorant itself. Reactive dye fixing agents improve wash-fastness; soaping agents wash out unfixed dye; dispersing agents (NNO/Setamol) keep disperse dye particles stabilized; print pastes carry dye through screen printing; pH buffers and water softeners ensure consistent bath chemistry.

Imported Brand → China Equivalent

Equivalents are indicative; verify against TDS for project-critical applications.

International Brand GradeChina EquivalentMajor Chinese Producers
DyStar Remazol Black B (Reactive Black 5)Reactive Black 5浙江龙盛 (Longsheng), 浙江闰土 (Runtu), 江苏吉华
Huntsman Avitera (multifunctional reactive)Reactive Bifunctional Dye浙江龙盛, 浙江闰土
DyStar Dianix (Disperse Blue 56)Disperse Blue 56浙江龙盛, 江苏亚邦, 闰土
Clariant Foron (Disperse Red 60)Disperse Red 60浙江龙盛, 浙江闰土, 浙江山峪
DyStar Telon (Acid Red 18)Acid Red 18浙江龙盛, 江苏吉华
Sandoz Lanasyn / Tectilon (Acid)Acid dye nylon equivalent series浙江龙盛, 江苏亚邦
Ciba Astrazon (Cationic dye)Cationic dye for acrylic浙江龙盛, 上海远东
BASF Indanthrene Blue (Vat Blue 4)Vat Blue 4 Indanthrone上海安诺其, 浙江龙盛
LANXESS H-acid (intermediate)H-acid 8-amino-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic河南新乡迈奇 (Maiqi), 江苏盐城天嘉宜, 浙江华星化工
BASF Aniline (intermediate)Aniline industrial grade山东金岭化工, 江苏南通星辰, 河南神马
Hodogaya / Mitsubishi PPDp-Phenylenediamine PPD industrial / hair-grade河南许昌恒生 (Hensheng), 江苏 BASF

Frequently Asked Questions

Reactive vs Direct dyes for cotton — which should I choose?

Reactive dyes give bright, wash-fast colors (ISO 105-C06 ≥4 wash rating) at slightly higher cost — they covalently bond to cellulose. Direct dyes are cheaper and process-simpler but have moderate wash-fastness (rating 2–3) — they only physically adsorb to fiber. Modern cotton textiles use reactive; direct dyes survive in cost-sensitive markets and for after-treatment-improved formulations.

Reactive dye chemistry: the dye carries a reactive group (vinyl sulfone in Remazol/Black 5; mono-chlorotriazine in Procion MX; fluorochlorotriazine in Cibacron F; bifunctional VS+MCT in Sumifix Supra) that forms a covalent ether bond with cellulose hydroxyl. Bond is permanent — wash-fastness retains through 50+ launderings. Reactive dye costs $4–8/kg vs direct dye $2–4/kg, but reactive uses 50–80% lower dye-on-fiber loading (better exhaustion), so total dye cost on garment is similar. Direct dye is still preferred for: cost-sensitive markets (Bangladesh basic apparel, India lower-end yarn dyeing), brown/black earth-tones where wash-fastness matters less, garment-dyeing where multiple over-dyes are expected. Modern reactive bifunctional dyes (Avitera, Sumifix Supra) target 70%+ dye fixation rate vs 50–60% for monofunctional reactive — significantly reducing dye-house effluent color load.

What is the difference between disperse dye for HT and carrier method?

HT-HP (high-temperature high-pressure) at 130°C dyes polyester directly without carrier — the standard for new equipment. Carrier method at 100°C requires a swelling agent (e.g., dye carrier for polyester) to open the polyester structure — used in older atmospheric-pressure equipment. Thermosol (220°C continuous) is the third method for woven fabric.

HT-HP method uses jet, beam, or jig dyeing machines pressurized to 1.5–2.0 bar; temperature 130°C is the optimum for diffusing disperse dye into amorphous regions of polyester. Standard cycle 60–90 minutes; energy consumption highest. Carrier method (atmospheric pressure) requires 3–8% dye-carrier on weight of fiber to swell polyester at 100°C reflux temperature. Carriers include dicyclohexyl phthalate, ortho-phenylphenol, or modern non-toxic alternatives (DCHP-free). Carrier residual on finished fabric is an environmental concern — most modern plants converted to HT-HP between 2000 and 2015 to eliminate carrier emissions. Thermosol continuous method bypasses both — fabric is padded with disperse dye paste, dried at 100°C, then fixed at 200–220°C for 30 seconds in a tenter frame. Used in woven-fabric dye houses (sheeting, lining), not in tubular knit.

Why do my reactive-dyed cotton fabrics fade in wash?

Three common causes: (1) unfixed dye not properly washed off (need adequate soaping), (2) hydrolyzed dye precipitation in the bath, (3) high alkalinity damaging the covalent bond during washing. Use after-treatment with reactive-dye fixing agent and proper soaping protocol.

Reactive dye fixation requires alkaline conditions (pH 10.5–11 with sodium carbonate or NaOH) to form the covalent dye-fiber bond. After dyeing, unreacted (hydrolyzed) dye remains in the bath and physically adsorbs to fiber surface — this must be washed out with hot water (95°C) and soaping agent. Soaping for 10–20 minutes at 95°C with 1–2 g/L nonionic surfactant removes hydrolyzed dye. Cationic fixing agents (e.g., polyDADMAC-based or cationic amine resins) bind any remaining hydrolyzed dye to the fiber, further reducing washoff. Garment durability: properly-finished reactive-dyed cotton survives 50+ home launderings (ISO 105-C06 rating 4-5). Failure modes: insufficient soaping leaves hydrolyzed dye that washes out in first 5 cycles; chlorinated water (swimming pool) attacks vinyl sulfone reactive groups; bleach destroys all reactive dyes. Specify reactive dyes with high wet-fastness (rating 5 standard for premium garments).

Which dye intermediates are restricted by REACH or ETAD?

Specific azo-cleaving amine intermediates (24 listed in EU directive 2002/61/EC) are banned from textiles entering EU markets — benzidine, 4-aminobiphenyl, o-toluidine, etc. Dyes that release these amines upon reductive cleavage are prohibited. Most modern reactive, disperse, and acid dyes are designed to avoid these intermediates.

The EU Regulation 1907/2006 (REACH) Annex XVII Entry 43 bans textile articles where any of 24 specified azo-cleaving aromatic amines exceeds 30 mg/kg. The list includes benzidine (carcinogen Class 1), 4-aminobiphenyl, o-toluidine, p-cresidine, 2-naphthylamine, and others. Tests are run on the textile end-product, not the dye — so any dye that synthesizes from these amines is effectively banned. ETAD (Ecological & Toxicological Association of Dyes) publishes a self-imposed industry list overlapping with EU's; member companies (DyStar, Huntsman, Clariant, plus Chinese members 浙江龙盛 / 闰土 / 江苏吉华) commit to not producing or selling restricted dyes. Chinese-origin dyes for EU export must be tested per ISO 17234 (reduction + GC-MS for cleavable amines) and certified compliant. Many Chinese producers also offer OEKO-TEX 100 certification, which extends the restricted-substance list to ~350 parameters covering pesticides, heavy metals, and APEO surfactants.

Why do Indian textile dye houses prefer Chinese dyes over Indian-made?

Chinese dyes typically offer better batch-to-batch shade consistency (deviation <0.5 ΔE vs Indian 1–2 ΔE), broader product portfolio depth per category, and competitive pricing on bulk-volume contracts. Indian dye houses use Chinese dyes for shade matching to international brand specs, while Indian producers retain domestic-market volume on commodity grades.

China's dye industry has consolidated since 2015 into large integrated producers (Longsheng/Runtu/Tianjia merged + closed smaller polluters), giving scale economies and tighter QC. Indian dye production is more fragmented (1000+ producers vs China's ~200 major ones), with Atul, Bodal, Kiri Industries being the largest. For brand-specification dyeing (Levi's, H&M, Inditex, Uniqlo) that requires ΔE < 0.8 shade tolerance, Chinese-origin dye is the default choice. For commodity local-brand dyeing (Indian domestic apparel, hosiery), Indian-origin dyes are competitive on price. Supply chain: Surat, Ahmedabad, and Tirupur textile clusters import 200+ kt/yr Chinese dyes via JNPT and Mundra ports; the trade routes through Mumbai-based distributors who carry warehoused inventory of standard grades. AQUChem routes through this established channel for India-market customers.

What is the typical CIF price differential between Chinese and EU dyes?

Commodity-grade reactive and disperse dyes from Chinese producers are 50–70% lower CIF than equivalent DyStar / Huntsman / Clariant grades. The gap narrows to 25–40% for specialty multifunctional reactive dyes (Avitera-equivalent), and to 15–25% for high-end disperse dyes with proprietary chromophores.

Reactive Black 5 from 浙江龙盛 at $5–7/kg CIF Asia vs DyStar Remazol Black B at $12–18/kg. Disperse Blue 56 from 闰土 at $6–9/kg vs Clariant Foron at $14–20/kg. The gap reflects: (1) China's H-acid and aniline intermediate cost advantage (vertical integration), (2) lower compliance and HSE overhead, (3) larger Asian market share (volume scale economics). DyStar and Huntsman retain pricing premium on technology-protected dyes (multifunctional bifunctional reactive, ultra-high lightfastness disperse, specialty chromophores for high-end automotive textile). Chinese supply is dominant for: cotton T-shirt and hosiery dye (low-tech), denim indigo, polyester sportswear, fashion knit. EU brands retain supply for: automotive interior textile, technical military textile, premium silk dyeing, luxury suiting. The market is bifurcating, not consolidating to one origin.

What documents and certifications come with the dye?

COA (color strength, shade ΔE, moisture, salt content, banned amine test per ISO 17234), SDS/MSDS, TDS standard. OEKO-TEX 100 certificate available for finished-textile-grade dyes; ZDHC MRSL compliance for global apparel brands (Levi's, H&M, Inditex, Nike supply chain). ETAD compliance statement for EU buyers.

Each dye batch's COA includes: dye content (titration or HPLC), color strength relative to standard reference (% strength), shade ΔE in CIELAB color space vs reference, moisture, electrolyte content (NaCl for reactive, Na₂SO₄ for disperse), insoluble matter, banned-amine GC-MS test per ISO 17234, heavy metals per WHO drinking-water limits. OEKO-TEX 100 certification extends to ~350 parameters; ZDHC MRSL (Manufacturing Restricted Substances List) covers ~250 substances for apparel brand chain-of-custody. Chinese dye producers serving Western brands typically have multiple certifications (BlueSign, ZDHC, OEKO-TEX, REACH SVHC, ETAD member status). For dye-intermediate sales (H-acid, aniline), the regulatory burden is lower — REACH registration and SDS suffice for industrial intermediate transactions.

MOQ, packaging, lead time for dye export?

Samples 0.5–2 kg free; standard commercial MOQ 100–500 kg for finished dye, 1 metric ton for intermediates (H-acid, aniline). Packaging: 25 kg fiber drum (most common), 1 t bulk-bag, 50 kg HDPE drum for liquid. Lead time Asia 2-3 weeks, EU/NA 5-7 weeks, India 10-15 days.

Finished dye shelf life is 24 months in original sealed 25 kg fiber drum stored below 30°C dry. Dye is a relatively stable powder — primary deterioration is moisture absorption causing caking. Standard 25 kg fiber drum (lined with PE) holds either powder or pre-paste dye. Liquid disperse-dye paste (40–50% solids) is supplied in 50 kg HDPE drum or 1 t IBC. Container-load economics: 20-foot container holds 18–22 t dye (depending on density). Sea freight Asia-India 10-15 days via JNPT/Mundra/Pipavav; Asia-Bangladesh 12-18 days via Chittagong; Asia-Vietnam 7-10 days via Ho Chi Minh/Haiphong; Asia-Turkey 25-32 days via Istanbul; Asia-Brazil 30-40 days via Santos. For India and Bangladesh markets, distributor inventory in Mumbai or Dhaka is common — AQUChem can route via these established channels for faster delivery (1-2 weeks) on standard grades.

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